Xbox 360 – Ethernet
Activity & Link Modification
Whilst modifying my 360 to improve the airflow, I noticed
that the Ethernet port had 4 unsoldered connections usually used for the ‘link’
and ‘activity’ LED’s built into the
Remove Xbox360 Motherboard …
Turn upside down (carefull of the heatsinks!) and locate under the
Solder 60 cm long wires to them (small soldering iron required, fairly easy, if you could do D0, this is a walk in the park … ;-)
I used 2 pairs from a RJ45 patch cable – keeps things neat and tidy. Make a note of which wires go to which pairs and pin numbers – in my case :-
Green/White = 1 (+)
Green = 2 (-)
Blue/White = 3 (+)
Blue = 4 (-)
Replace the motherboard and route the cables out where the fan sits …
2. Design using the infrared sensor mounting pad (looks almost stock).
3. Modified Design for 3 LED's - using stripboard for mount.
4. Side Mounting in front of HDD.
Replace the fan etc, route the cables behind the fan power connector and around the DVD Rom …
The 360 has very few ‘holes’ in the front (unlike the original Xbox) so finding an exit for the wires is challenging – I used the Radio daughterboard connector hole (‘just’ big enough for the wires..)
Put the Radio daughterboard back – routing the wires behind it and out of the USB port area - get the button plastic cover on the right way around … ;-)
Now for the difficult bit !
(Update 05/04/07 - there is an alternative way of mounting the leds here )
Where to place the LED’s – the standard front cover has two rather handy indents already in it above the USB Flap J
I drilled these using a 3mm drill (for 3mm LED’s..) and then a 4mm countersink to make the LED’s as flush as possible – careful here – you don’t want to go right through with the 4mm …
The LED’s were a snug fit – so I just melted the plastic around them with a soldering iron to seal them in – also note what is the Cathode and Anode before doing this ! You’ll need to do some careful leg bending here as the faceplate fits snug on the console …
Solder on the wires according to the notes you made before – remember LED’s are directional – you won’t do any damage if you connect them around the wrong way – they just won’t work !
Generally speaking, the ‘small’ plate inside the LED is the Anode (+) and the larger portion is the Cathode (-)
The finished faceplate :-
A few pics in action :-
Bottom LED is the link light, the top the Ethernet/Live activity …
You'll be left with this :
I only wanted the 'Activity' LED (not the link light) so I just did this on for one led. Cut off the bit of plastic sticking out of the long side of the above piece of plastic. You will find it has a centre molding hole - I used this and a 3.2mm drill to drill a hole through the plastic. You 'may' be able to get away with the LED actually shining though the plastic if you have a bright enough led... but a hole doesn't look out of place - see below.
Solder the LED onto the ends of the wires (remembering the anode / cathode) and heatshrink the bare wires :
Routing the cable is a little tricky, but you need to run the cable through the hole next to the Infrared receiver hole but avoid the Eject mechanism at the same time.
The LED should poke out the hole in the existing faceplate. You'll need to bend the legs at 90 degrees to make it fit. Check the eject mechanism still works.
Once it's all fitting properly and you have tested it - put back the Infrared plastic mount (superglue it in if it's loose)..
The final result on Ethernet Activity (Live etc) .. :
Drill though the holes so they all line up on the faceplate etc - careful of the radioboard !
Then insert the leds from behind the case - all 3 pop in and out without having to line up each one .. :)
Disclaimer – By doing ANY of the above, you will be voiding the MS Warranty – I cannot be held responsible by any damage caused to yourself or the console.
Thanks,
Richard.